Autobiography, Installment #2: Strata
Feb. 14th, 2011 01:33 amNearly every aspect about our lives is a function of geography: where we are, where we want to be and how we can get from one to the other. To grow up in northern Ontario is to know exactly where you are: god-forsaken, isolated nowhere. It also informs where you want to go --anywhere but here-- and how to get there --by any means available.
I mentioned previously the region is essentially an ancient lake bed from the last ice age. Glaciers smoothed the ancient basalt rock formations to low bumps and the ancient lake silt filled in the depressions to leave the modern land surface effectively flat. There are four exceptions in our immediately area, however.
The alluvial clay soil erodes easily so even small and comparatively young creeks and rivers have cut deep, narrow river valleys. The general flatness and the impermiability of the basalt bedrock also means there are rivers, creeks, lakes and ponds everywhere. My five mile long school bus ride to our local elementary school crossed no fewer than three creeks, several more if we took the scenic route.
The major lake of the area is named Long Lake: 22 miles long, 200 feet across, 60 feet deep. I know nothing about the geological origins of this particular lake. It figures highly in my memories however because the south-east end divides the village of Charlton (pop. 160) in two. The halves are linked by a single road over three steel-reinforced concrete single lane bridges constructed in 1954 over three parallel sets of waterfalls which then immediately merge to form the headwaters of the Englehart River. When you say you're heading to the lake or to the beach, this is where you're going.
About ten miles to the southwest of our farm is a formation known as Sand Ridge, named such by our creative forefathers because it is a colossal ridge formed entirely of coarse orange sand. Having access to 100 billion tons of sand is a very good thing indeed when one has icy roads in winter. The sandy soil also produces the best blueberries in the area, huge and juicy if there is sufficient rainfall. The berries in turn attract the largest well-fed brown bears I have ever seen. One learns to pick berries in teams with at least one person with reasonably good eyesight constantly acting as a look-out.
The only other interesting geological feature is a shallow rift valley, an elongated basin created when the land on each side rebounded along fault lines after the weight of mile-deep ice was lifted 12,000 years ago. The town of Englehart (pop. 1200) sits in the middle of the basin; Highway 11, our major north-south escape route to civilization runs the length of it. If frostbite and hypothermia aren't sufficiently attractive winter activities to entice you to visit, go just to see the spectacular icicles and ice falls along the basalt cliffs of Highway 560 just as it runs along the fault line at the edge of the basin. Ground water seeps all year round from top onto the rock face where it freezes and melts in the sunlight, creating towering ice formations 100 feet high, tinted by the minerals in the groundwater and dazzling in the morning sun. If you're very lucky in the spring, you might see massive ice formations peel away from the rock face and crash to the ground, shaking everything around as tons of ice shatter on the boulders. Just don't stand too close.
Our farm was located near the geographic center of Dack Township, a nearly 100% rural expanse with a population of less than 500 people but perhaps 2,500 cows --god help us all when the cows start voting as a single political bloc. Charlton and the lake were in the north-west corner, five miles away; Englehart was in the north-east corner, eight miles.
Townships are interesting entities. There are no counties in northern Ontario --those are a southern Ontario feature; I have no idea why this is but there are probably historical and political reasons. For this discussion, just think county and you'll get the picture.
Townships come in two flavours: organized and unorganized. The organized townships are formally incorporated, have their own elected officials (a reeve [mayor] and councillors) and run their own affairs. Unorganized townships have no such privileges: they are effectively just place names on a map created for the purposes of sorting & identification by the provincial government. The services there are provided by the provincial system --but typically only when the province gets around to them after they've addressed higher priority areas. An organized township would have its snowplows out clearing the roads immediately after a heavy snowfall; an unorganized township may have to wait a few days, a week or more.
Why do I mention this? There's a social status involved here.
Dack Township (mine): Organized.
Evantural Township: Organized.
Hilliard Township: Organized.
Chamberlain Township: Organized.
Savard Township: Unorganized.
To say that Savard Township was looked down upon by its neighbours understates the situation in the same way that World War II could be described as a minor skirmish. As the child of newly arrived would-be farmers, my social standing was only slightly higher than algae in the food chain of rural society but I could still claim a status over my counterparts in Savard.
When you're a nearly microscopic fish in an equally microscopic pond, one latches desperately onto anything for the illusion of status. Excusable in children, pathetic in adults.
Of course, status also comes from lineage. My family were new arrivals so we had claim to any sort of children-of-the-original-settlers ancestry. My parents were already married and my brother and I were years below respectable marrying age --even in this area-- so there was no possibility of marrying into the right family tree.
Even these progenitor families were more fiction than reality. Nearly the entire region was destroyed in an immense forest fire in the fall of 1922; everything there now basically started from this new 1922 baseline. The settlement years prior to the fire became fanciful myths of a great golden age of prosperity. Pure fiction, but it's a fiction many an old family has woven into their identity and god help the scoundrel who tries involving facts, records or reality.
And finally, status comes from one's financial means and career choices. Professionals such as doctors, lawyers and such were probably at the top but since I hadn't met any until I was in high school, who can say? Government bureaucrats were envied for their job stability and regular hours but that was all.
Among the people I met daily, the miners and railway workers were at the top of the food chain. They were well-paid by our standards, had steady work and generally had free time and disposable income for things like vacations, a second vehicle, recreational vehicles and satellite television. At the bottom were farmers, barely making a small living working seven days per week, whose pitiful fortunes were entirely tied to the whims of the weather, market prices and how long one got on with the local banker who would decide whether or not to finance the purchase of seed, fertilizer, equipment, livestock or such, or whether to order repossession of such items when a payment was missed.
My grade 1 class photo nicely illustrated the differences in means. In a class of 25 or so, a handful were properly scrubbed & neatly presented with clean clothes and new shoes. The rest of us were a scraggly lot in ill-fitting, patched hand-me-down clothes, shoes with holes and a general appearance of sad desperation.
When one lives at the bottom long enough, one either becomes fatalistically accustomed to the view or one becomes more determined day by day to escape.
One also begins to question the intelligence and sanity of one's parents who brought them to this hopelessness. I can forgive general naivete about the harshness of the region and the myopia brought on by the excitement of following their dream, but it takes a bewildering display of foolishness and denial to avoid creating a vaguely realistic business plan.
At the age of four, I learned the following lessons alongside my alphabet and numbers:
I mentioned previously the region is essentially an ancient lake bed from the last ice age. Glaciers smoothed the ancient basalt rock formations to low bumps and the ancient lake silt filled in the depressions to leave the modern land surface effectively flat. There are four exceptions in our immediately area, however.
The alluvial clay soil erodes easily so even small and comparatively young creeks and rivers have cut deep, narrow river valleys. The general flatness and the impermiability of the basalt bedrock also means there are rivers, creeks, lakes and ponds everywhere. My five mile long school bus ride to our local elementary school crossed no fewer than three creeks, several more if we took the scenic route.
The major lake of the area is named Long Lake: 22 miles long, 200 feet across, 60 feet deep. I know nothing about the geological origins of this particular lake. It figures highly in my memories however because the south-east end divides the village of Charlton (pop. 160) in two. The halves are linked by a single road over three steel-reinforced concrete single lane bridges constructed in 1954 over three parallel sets of waterfalls which then immediately merge to form the headwaters of the Englehart River. When you say you're heading to the lake or to the beach, this is where you're going.
About ten miles to the southwest of our farm is a formation known as Sand Ridge, named such by our creative forefathers because it is a colossal ridge formed entirely of coarse orange sand. Having access to 100 billion tons of sand is a very good thing indeed when one has icy roads in winter. The sandy soil also produces the best blueberries in the area, huge and juicy if there is sufficient rainfall. The berries in turn attract the largest well-fed brown bears I have ever seen. One learns to pick berries in teams with at least one person with reasonably good eyesight constantly acting as a look-out.
The only other interesting geological feature is a shallow rift valley, an elongated basin created when the land on each side rebounded along fault lines after the weight of mile-deep ice was lifted 12,000 years ago. The town of Englehart (pop. 1200) sits in the middle of the basin; Highway 11, our major north-south escape route to civilization runs the length of it. If frostbite and hypothermia aren't sufficiently attractive winter activities to entice you to visit, go just to see the spectacular icicles and ice falls along the basalt cliffs of Highway 560 just as it runs along the fault line at the edge of the basin. Ground water seeps all year round from top onto the rock face where it freezes and melts in the sunlight, creating towering ice formations 100 feet high, tinted by the minerals in the groundwater and dazzling in the morning sun. If you're very lucky in the spring, you might see massive ice formations peel away from the rock face and crash to the ground, shaking everything around as tons of ice shatter on the boulders. Just don't stand too close.
Our farm was located near the geographic center of Dack Township, a nearly 100% rural expanse with a population of less than 500 people but perhaps 2,500 cows --god help us all when the cows start voting as a single political bloc. Charlton and the lake were in the north-west corner, five miles away; Englehart was in the north-east corner, eight miles.
Townships are interesting entities. There are no counties in northern Ontario --those are a southern Ontario feature; I have no idea why this is but there are probably historical and political reasons. For this discussion, just think county and you'll get the picture.
Townships come in two flavours: organized and unorganized. The organized townships are formally incorporated, have their own elected officials (a reeve [mayor] and councillors) and run their own affairs. Unorganized townships have no such privileges: they are effectively just place names on a map created for the purposes of sorting & identification by the provincial government. The services there are provided by the provincial system --but typically only when the province gets around to them after they've addressed higher priority areas. An organized township would have its snowplows out clearing the roads immediately after a heavy snowfall; an unorganized township may have to wait a few days, a week or more.
Why do I mention this? There's a social status involved here.
Dack Township (mine): Organized.
Evantural Township: Organized.
Hilliard Township: Organized.
Chamberlain Township: Organized.
Savard Township: Unorganized.
To say that Savard Township was looked down upon by its neighbours understates the situation in the same way that World War II could be described as a minor skirmish. As the child of newly arrived would-be farmers, my social standing was only slightly higher than algae in the food chain of rural society but I could still claim a status over my counterparts in Savard.
When you're a nearly microscopic fish in an equally microscopic pond, one latches desperately onto anything for the illusion of status. Excusable in children, pathetic in adults.
Of course, status also comes from lineage. My family were new arrivals so we had claim to any sort of children-of-the-original-settlers ancestry. My parents were already married and my brother and I were years below respectable marrying age --even in this area-- so there was no possibility of marrying into the right family tree.
Even these progenitor families were more fiction than reality. Nearly the entire region was destroyed in an immense forest fire in the fall of 1922; everything there now basically started from this new 1922 baseline. The settlement years prior to the fire became fanciful myths of a great golden age of prosperity. Pure fiction, but it's a fiction many an old family has woven into their identity and god help the scoundrel who tries involving facts, records or reality.
And finally, status comes from one's financial means and career choices. Professionals such as doctors, lawyers and such were probably at the top but since I hadn't met any until I was in high school, who can say? Government bureaucrats were envied for their job stability and regular hours but that was all.
Among the people I met daily, the miners and railway workers were at the top of the food chain. They were well-paid by our standards, had steady work and generally had free time and disposable income for things like vacations, a second vehicle, recreational vehicles and satellite television. At the bottom were farmers, barely making a small living working seven days per week, whose pitiful fortunes were entirely tied to the whims of the weather, market prices and how long one got on with the local banker who would decide whether or not to finance the purchase of seed, fertilizer, equipment, livestock or such, or whether to order repossession of such items when a payment was missed.
My grade 1 class photo nicely illustrated the differences in means. In a class of 25 or so, a handful were properly scrubbed & neatly presented with clean clothes and new shoes. The rest of us were a scraggly lot in ill-fitting, patched hand-me-down clothes, shoes with holes and a general appearance of sad desperation.
When one lives at the bottom long enough, one either becomes fatalistically accustomed to the view or one becomes more determined day by day to escape.
One also begins to question the intelligence and sanity of one's parents who brought them to this hopelessness. I can forgive general naivete about the harshness of the region and the myopia brought on by the excitement of following their dream, but it takes a bewildering display of foolishness and denial to avoid creating a vaguely realistic business plan.
At the age of four, I learned the following lessons alongside my alphabet and numbers:
- Who you are matters.
- Who other people say you are matters, even if they're wrong.
- People lie, especially about themselves. Especially if they have something to lose.
- Always have a Plan B.
- My parents were idiots, albeit well-meaning and loving idiots. My older brother too.
- I was going to be different. Somehow, I was going to be smarter, successful and resourceful. Above all else, I would leave this god-awful mess behind as soon as possible. Sadly, I also knew enough math at age four to realize that it would take at least 14 years until my 18th birthday, an utter eternity to a child. *sigh*